As promoised, this will be a report on our recent trip to Cordoba.  One of the most delightful and interesting cities in Spain.  At least that is my humble opinion.

But first a bit of historical perspective.  The city of Cordoba was a commercial center already during the time of the Romans and was the birthplace of Seneca the younger,  Roman dramaturgist and philosopher.  But it came into it's own during the time of the Moors when it was the largest city in the world with a population of over 600,000.  And it was certainly the most opulant.  But it was not only it's opulance that makes it remembered but also it was a seat of learning that was unrivialed in the world during it's days of greatness and for many, many years after.

But the main attraction today as it in fact was when it was built over 1200 years ago, (Started in 785 AD.) is the Grand Mosque.  A building unparalled in all the world.  To just say it is huge is to really show a total lack of understanding of the space of the place.  And while I shall give you an idea of it's size in stale figures, some 322,915 sq. feet, it is probably easier to understand if I tell you that in the 1700's the Catholics built a Cathedral within it's confines and still left most of it in it's original configuration!

This photo should give you some idea of it's great dimensions.  The two square columns and the round arch at the back of the picture are additions made to hold the dome of the Cathedral.

Of course, photography is a bit difficult due to the size and very dim light in various parts of the building, so that even an excellent flash unit like the one I have can't manage to light that great a space!  But then, the architect that was responsible for it's construction wasn't all that worried about dumb tourists who want to take photos either. 

Although this must have worried him more than just a bit.  For this is the famous Mihrab or niche where the holy books were kept which traditionally faces towards Mecca or as it would be in Cordoba, to the East.  But this one does not.  And as far as I know is the only one in the Western world that points West!  The reason given being that the architect that designed the building was in such a hurry that he made a mistake.  Now this is the official story and not one that any one with even the slightest knowledge of Abderrahamn I, the man who commissioned the building of the Mosque, would be likely to believe.  For if you made a "Mistake" of that consequence you most certainly would have ended up walking around with your head under you arm.  He was not a man to be fucked with in other words.  Nor was it ever rectified during the following three centries of it's use.

No, the true reason that it was placed as it was was due to the fact that upon his arrival in Cordoba after all his family was slaugtered in a palace coup and after his flight from Damascus, Abderrahamn I declared Cordoba to be the center of the Mulsim world and I am certain the the placing of the Mihrab was extremly well thought out on his part.  I shall leave it up to your imagination to picture which part of the devout anatomy was facing Damascus and Mecca while prayers were being said.  Oddly enough, the latest theory is that when he crossed the Med from North Africa to Spain he landed in the town of Nerja where we live.

But despite the lighting difficulties for us that have followed it must have been the most fantastic building of it's kind in all the world when in was new.  Which was the idea behind it's construction after all.  To illustrate, here you have one of the approximately 10 entrances, (The exact number is difficult to asess due to the first church that was built inside the building extends to this part so that some have been removed.) that were in the Eastern facade of the building.

But as you can see they were very impressive indeed.  All the doors themselves were covered in polished brass that must have shone like gold in the bright Cordoban sun.  While the arches above were beautifully decoratated, again in various metals with religious sayings in bas relief.  Below is another.  This time a little closer up.  I do hope you will forgive me the picture taking hands but if I had waited till they were all gone I would probably still be there as it is a very busy place.

Especially as it was on a Monday and entrance is free during the morning.  Otherwise the entrance fee is 8€ or $10 American.  Not bad considering it has been named a World Heritage site by UNESCO.

More views of some of the more ornate arches.  And keep in mind as you see these photos that these are over 1200 years old and were all carved by hand.  No machine tools back in those days.

And as with all Arabic public buildings of that era an outside patio with cool trees and running water every where was essential.  And here nothing else would do other than orange trees.  Newly introduced to Spain by the same Eastern invaders.

Here you have a night photo of the rather, to my way of thinking at least, gaudy bell tower.  Which was originally the minaret.  But middle age church architecture also had it's traditions and styles so this was the result.  But it was sure as hell effective.  You can hear that great bell in the center for miles!

These are a selection of the original rafters that were replaced during a restoration that took place almost 100 years ago.  Sadly, at the time, 3 of these were stolen and they have just re-appeared in Sotheby's auction rooms where they were sold to the highest bidder.  This despite the Spanish government going to court in an attempt to have the sale stopped and the items returned to the rightful owner, the Spanish state.  Which just goes to prove that if you keep a stolen work of art long enough it somehow becomes the property of the thief or his/her heirs.  So don't be surprised if quite a number of works of art stolen during WWII soon begin to show up and are sold.  Unless their original owners were Jewish of course.  Then, somehow it is not allowed.  But Muslim art?  No problem baby.

This is how they must have looked when they were new and in their original position.

But to badly paraphrase one of our great poets, "Man cannot live on culture alone."  The body needs refueling upon occasion also.  And Cordoba is one great place for this also.  The street that parallels the Mosque in the photo of the bell tower/Miniret was in fact, the boundry of the old Jewish quarter which is a hive of small, narrow streets filled mostly with bars and resturants.  So one did not have far to go!

We tested the water, (Figurativly speaking only as I am certain you understand.) on our very first afternoon in town by going to a bar that I had visited on my last trip to Cordoba.  Only to test the magnificient sherry made in the area and see if it still was kept up to standard.  And as this was a Sunday it was filled to the rafters with hungry and thirsty Cordobans.  In fact it was so filled with people that a lot of the younger set were setting on the steps of the entrance.  And a good place for them too.  The good seats, close to the bar, should always be reserved for the more mature!  (That's my belief and I'm sticking too it.)  But such a crush of people does not make for congeniality so we only had one drink and then went back to our hotel for a well earned siesta.  Unfortunately, the old synagoge, which is just down the street a few steps was closed both Sunday and Monday so our friends did not get to see it.  A shame as it is the only one left in all of Spain from that era.  But I am happy to report that the sherry is still being handled very well.

Here you have a view of the street where our hotel was located.  In fact both photos were taken from right outside the door.  This view is looking down the street and the building where the street sign is is the Mosque so we did not have far to go.

The same view taken at night.

This is a view up the street taken from the same position.  As you can see it is somewhat narrow and poor friend Jan, who is from Danmark and was doing the driving, was not a happy camper driving to our hotel I can assure you.

The same, again taken at night.

But with little ado a very nice restaurant was found in the very next street.  And seeing as how Cordoba is famous for it's patios what else could it be?

A view from the entrance.

This is a look at the wall next to our table.  And I swear I only took it to show the plant decorations.

This is a shot of more of the same wall and a further view into the restaurant itself.

The entrance from inside. With half of friend Jan's head at no extra cost.

This is one of the side rooms and shows you the original method of construction.  Before it was covered in a layer of cement and who knows how many coats of white wash.

Friends Jan and Alice preparing to feed the inner man.  And woman.

And SWMBO preparing to do what she does best.  (Well, almost best anyway.)

And I am happy to report the food was great and the wine was very palatable also.  In fact so much so that we needed two bottles just to make absolutely certain.

So now I shall leave you kiddies but not without a  photo of one of the greats of Muslim Cordoba.  His name was Maimonidis and he was supposedly the most learned physican in the whole of Europe.  But he was Jewish and although he was the Caliph's personal physician, when the Christains arrived naturally he was driven out of the country.  They preferred the healing powers of their saints to that of science and thus in the 13th century the plague struck the city  it's population was reduced to 250,000 souls which is all it can support today.  But the end of the plague, which finally came in the 17th century, is still attributed to St. Raphael.  Even if he was a bit slow getting round to it.

Finally a picture of a quiet little square SWMBO and I found when Jan and Alice went for a walk over the Roman bridge which was a bit far for my old hip.  Oddly enough it was in the plaza called the Jew Levi.  Who he was to deserve his own plaza I have not a clue but very pleasant it was having a small beverage whilst being entertained by a young man with a guitar who could actually play it and also sing in a very plesant voice.  Quite unlike the street "musicians" in our home pueblo who are all from Rumania and make horrid noises come out of a worn out old squeeze box and have voices that sound as if they lived on a diet of razor blades and broken glass.

So that's it for now kiddies.  I do hope you have enjoyed your little virtual trip around my favorite city and that it might inspire you to make the actual journey yourselves.

 COMMENTS

GOM - Thanks so much for another terrific photo journey in your neck of the
woods.  As I sit in the chilly gloom of Seattle November, it's pleasant to
imagine walking among the orange trees, in warmer air.  That edifice is
quite amazing. I think my brother may have visited Cordoba with his family
when he was still married to the SIL from hell.  I'll have to ask him if
they went there.
Not much to report here, other than flooding rivers and plummeting house
values. Not as bad as the Great Depression, but there's still time...
Cheers to you guys,
Isabelita

One of the many things I DON'T miss from the old days is a rainy Seattle in November.  Had plenty of those in Danmark also.  Here we are having a sort of what would be called a "Light Heat Wave" in your neck of the woods.   And just up the road the ski season in the Serria Nevada starts today.  A month earlier than normal! 

As far as house prices go, here they simply do not exist!  No one has sold a house here for months so prices are totally  irrelevant.  Just a few months ago there were over 100 real estate offices in town here and now there are perhaps 25.  And they are only surviving because they do rentals to tourists and maintainence for the absentee owners.  Just last week what was the second largest and one of the oldest operators in town, which was owned by an old Dane we know, pulled the shutters down.

And just to add to the joy, another pair of friends from Danmark are arriving later today!  But at least they are not staying with us but have rented an apartment.  They are coming to celebrate their 45th wedding anniversary with us.  She is one of SWBMO's childhood friends and they have kept in contact throught all our world wanderings.  Which I think is great.  Really nice couple also.

Do hope you folks can miss the depression but I fear the worst.  So if it comes to the point you are thinking about living under a bridge, think about coming over here.  It's a hell of a lot warmer and the rivers are dry due to lack of that wet stuff that keeps falling on you over in Seattle.

GOM